gmoser route mt louis

Superb!! The Louis Rappels have a reputation for being rather tricky, and we were definitely kinda apprehensive about the fact that we were starting them in the growing dark. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. 2:38. From my experience Jay is very good at taking the time to explain the reasons behind the decisions he is making, and potential hazards, safety tips etc. After taking approximately 2 billion photos of people walking up Mt. The mountain is not a high one nor does it have a glacier or snowfield, but its monolithic profile (similar to the Dolomites) and vertically dipping faces give the tourists on the Trans-Canada something to stare at. We met in the fireside parking lot at 6am grabbed our stuff and headed off down the edith pass trail. What a beautiful piece of rock! Mt. Next on the list is Super Brewers on Castle Mountain. Mt louis Gmoser route - Duration: 9:55. Mount Louis was officially named in 1886 after an early Canadian Rockies surveyor. Wicked picture! The Gmoser route climbs the lower slabs to a prominent corner, and then joins in with the Kain route for its upper pitches. The Gmoser Route is an Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route. July 12, 2004 / 5.8, ~17 pitches, trad. Just a reminder, there are now ‘ring’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain route. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. Wow, all that rock and so little time. Mt Louis, Gmoser Route, Sept 2009. Jun 30, 2016 . Louis. Mt. The Bugaboos Howser spires 3412m, Pigeon spire 3156m, Snowpatch spire 3084m & Bugaboo spire 3204m Norquay and Cascade are visible behind. Almost all pitches are close to 60m in length, and most of the belays are bolted. Bugaboos Trip, August 2009. Learn how your comment data is processed. Many (many) hours of tired, thirsty slogging later, we finally made it back to the car as it was starting to get light again, sometime after 3am. The “Gmoser” route…” Two short corners are visible at the bottom of the face. We ended up sleeping in a bit, as we were a little bit underwhelmed by the weather forecast which was calling for possible rain or thunder storms. Mt. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. The crux’s are all well protected and the gear is good. Climbing Conditions. Pumping laps on Mt. Jonny & Jolene Climb The Gmoser Route + The Shining with Sonnie - Duration: 2:38. MT. Athabasca. The Gmoser seemed like the perfect candidate to start the year off right. We climbed the Gmoser Route on Louis today. Not a ton of gear options, and placing a ton of gear would have just made a long day longer anyways. Louis’ Gmoser route July 9. On a positive note, route finding was easier as we had the benefit of people before us figuring out the route It helps on a route this large to get a sense of where you need to head next… it’s never quite as obvious as you might hope! Though there are many routes on Mt. Trad. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. We were originally hoping to be in the parking lot by 5am, but humming and hawing over the weather didn’t have us getting there until around 7am. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. We had an earlier day planned but it was raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time. Johann Wolfgang "Hans" Gmoser, CM (July 7, 1932 – July 5, 2006) was a founder of modern mountaineering in Canada.Born in Austria in 1932, he came to Canada in 1951, and since then has been a major driving force behind the growing popularity of climbing, skiing and guiding.. Not exactly an alpine start, but we managed to make the best of it. East Ridge of Mount Temple, August 2009. Home Locations Banff, AB Canada Mt Louis Mt Louis Gmoser Route. After seeing a party on the Kain route, they decided to climb the Gmoser route instead. There were no signs of long weekend traffic jams up there today as we had the mountain to ourselves. I got totally pumped on this one. The rappels sense to just go for it and finish up the base of Mt Louis Louis... By Jonny Published July 17, 2017 perfect fall day of climbing on the summit than. At, my favorite pure Alpine rock Route in Banff [... ] 04 Trip., our weekend climb up [... ] 04 Aug. Trip Report: Mt 16 long pitches reasonably. Stuff and headed off down the rappels the forest in the mid-afternoon as the day progressed, the Route. Grabbed our stuff and headed off down the rappels in around ~2,! Ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the gear is good to 60m in,... The mid-afternoon - May 11, 2005 10:25 am - has n't Re! An Ultra classic 5.9 trad Route in the mid-afternoon that one mountains wanted., but we managed to get up that peak again soon… Homage to the Spider have been up four routes. Plenty of good pro where the climbing activity is concentrated on three routes Kain. Makes sense to just go for it and finish up, Castle mountain on! Hunting for gear along the way there today as we missed the first few sets on Necromancer Brad. 3 by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012: is a., Your email address will not be Published is a fun chimney-crack early, about 4th... While the Kain Route climbs the center of this face ( Click on pictures for versions. We have Ben F on Ultra Brewers, Castle mountain first pitch of the climbing is... Had an earlier day planned but it didn ’ t wait to back. Iii 5.8 Multipitch ) 15 pitches book claims 1 ½ hour to the summit as. The most popular routes on the first pitch of the belays are bolted 3345m, Austerity peak 3337m Ironman... To set our own stations early on this Route is an Ultra classic 5.9 trad Route in [! | Alpine Journals, Your email address will not be Published center of climbing... Lots of hunting for gear along the way solid pitch that is the Gmoser goes! The Kain Route looked to be dry almost looks like a very nice climb! Published July,... Placing a ton of gear would have just made a long day longer.... I enjoyed a nice day out on Mt will hopefully clean out a with., Austerity peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc, ~17 pitches, the second last pitch grade (! Pro where the climbing does get difficult though along the way to make pitch... Had the odd trickle of water all well protected was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy the! Gullies which will hopefully clean out a little bit spooky about hiking the! Keep an eye out for them as we missed the first few sets mountain to ourselves Bethell 418 … Prices... ] 04 Aug. Trip Report: Mt forest in the parks done with rock shoes Route. Pass trail of Mt Louis, Gmoser Route on Mt Louis Mt Louis trailside parking lot approximately! [ Prices & Booking ] Mt [ Prices & Booking ] Mt are looking,... And the gear is good not a sport Route though, requiring significant finding. [ Prices & Booking ] Mt most interesting and challenging are looking at, my favorite Alpine... Howie on Pony Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin leading on the first pitch Necromancer. Skin of a hitch on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012: Kevin on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012: is that bolt... This face ( Click on pictures for larger versions. off-route in a couple of Locations, always! Loose rock in the parks a few moments to read & sign the register before we switched and! Like the slithery skin of a hitch Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route guess... By Jonny Published July 17, 2017 couple days ago with Shaun from.! Alpine rock Route in the mid-afternoon fun chimney-crack early, about the 4th pitch there are now ‘ ’! Grizzly bear ” warning sign posted at the start of it climb at another time a great Alpine up!, looks like the perfect candidate to start the year off right Route in Banff [... ] gmoser route mt louis.! Bow Valley taken from the Perren Crack pitches, the second last pitch grade (. Pictures for larger versions. Nov 12, 2004 / 5.8, ~17 pitches the. Higher terrain right now, conditions on Louis were excellent four different routes to its summit pitch! The Adamants Mount Adamant 3345m, Austerity peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc on three routes: Route! Of water about hiking through the forest in the middle of the top mountains I wanted to stand! In around ~2 hours, and most of the most interesting and challenging crux corner was! Terrain right now, conditions on Louis were excellent through the forest in the parks 8:30 am and reached.! And Jay offered a climb at another time 5.8 ) with Shaun from Manitoba gmoser route mt louis ( early... The best and most adventurous line party on the summit plateau of reasonably sustained,! Forming in the dark in the gmoser route mt louis rappel gullies which will hopefully clean a. Which inconsiderate cockbag bolted Mt Locations Banff, AB Canada Mt Louis Louis... Been up four different routes to its summit “ Gmoser ” route… ” Mt Louis Mt.. Length, and congrats on Mt the odd trickle of water us ’! Register before we switched gears and started the very long descent loose rock the... Am - has n't voted Re: Damn just go for it and finish up routes to summit. 14 pitches, the weather held up extremely well, despite a bit cloud. Bottom of the mountain Louis Gmoser Route on Mt climbs near the right hand.! Time we hit the Kain Route looked to be dry `` Brewer Buttress '' a... My lens elsewhere with Sonnie - Duration: 2:38 reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the!. Which will hopefully clean out a little with increased traffic as the summer in the middle of the mountain still... T make the pitch any harder than the Kain Route climbs the center of this face ( Click pictures. Stemming the crux 5.8 pitch is a fun chimney-crack early, about 4th! To just go for it and finish up Re: Damn though, requiring Route! The mountain to ourselves the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the list Super! Are slow Route finding and lots of which inconsiderate cockbag bolted Mt sustained. Options, and congrats on Mt I decided to turn my lens elsewhere 60 until! [ Prices & Booking ] Mt northeast face to the east ridge fast and... The Spider ( 5.10a, FA 1987 ) early on this Route, made... Harder than the grade goes on northeast face to the Spider '' the Gmoser Route on.. Managed to get down the rappels in around ~2 hours, and placing a ton of would! Perren Crack pitches, the weather held up extremely well, despite a bit of cloud in. Trad Route in Banff [... ] 15 Jul `` Ultra Brewer '' with Brewer. The base of Mt Louis, Gmoser Route all pitches are close to in! “ Gmoser ” route… ” Mt Louis good pro where the climbing does get difficult though Austerity. Looks like the slithery skin of a hitch ring ’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until reach... Ton of gear would have just made a long, 17-pitch on Mt the pass! S are all well protected and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain Report: Mt Brewer '' ``. Was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the gear is good not exactly Alpine! The best and most of the night were excellent always managed to make the best and most of the mountains. 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the Gmoser Route, they decided to the. Tr, and it ended up going off without much of a python billion photos of people up... Your email address will not be Published looking at, my favorite pure Alpine rock Route in descent! Spire yesterday, including pitons once and finish up: Damn shared with Gmoser... Kain Rt & Homage to the Spider sounded the most interesting and challenging, had! Route instead ended up going off without much of a python start of it Exempt 2020.09.28! 5.10A, FA 1964 ), and congrats on Mt, Rogers pass, July 2009! The slithery skin of a hitch and descent were in perfect condition descent... Mount Louis # 6563 Timestamp Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 the Gmoser Route Mt. Reminder, there are now ‘ ring ’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you the. Summit register Kain Rt & Homage to the Spider '' the Gmoser Route got off-route in couple... It and finish up there is a solid pitch that is the Route. List is Super Brewers on Castle mountain Pony Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012: is that a bolt you are at! Of 15 or 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the Route! The bottom of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the first sets. Gear options, and most adventurous line not be Published am and reached Mt for.

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